Most people think that the only way to convert an outdated bathroom is to bring it down to bare walls or studs. Not only is this expensive and time consuming, but it’s also very messy. For the homeowner working on a limited budget, a complete remodel is not an option. What to do in this situation? I think I’ve come up with a cost-effective and stylish solution that any handy person with intermediate skills could complete.

My three-step system uses ¼” bead board usually made from MDF secured to the wall with adhesive. Adhesives have been used in construction applications for decades and have come a long way over the years. Since MDF normally does not do well in humid areas, you must take care to protect it, so I  make sure it is well-protected with two coats of a good latex or oil-based paint and caulk. If you protect it well, moisture should never be an issue.

First, choose your lumber. Find a baseboard you like. A simple 1×4 primed pine works well in most cases. Next, choose the bead board you might want to use at Home Depot or other home center, where you’re likely to find several styles to choose from. Lastly, you’ll design a cap that will give your job that custom look.

Step one: Base board. There is usually a baseboard and cap designed to be used with bead board. They are good products and easy to use, but they look a little generic. Personally designing your baseboard only takes a little thought and will give you a custom look. In most cases I attempt to mimic the style in the house. If other areas of the house use a 1×4 I will use that. If it has details such as quarter round and/or some type of cap, I will attempt to copy that so there is a consistent design flow from other areas to the bathroom.

Step two: Bead board. In most bathrooms, the tile is 36” to 42” up the wall. Purchase the bead board materials in eight-foot lengths to save money, and cut it down to the right height. I’ve found it best to cut it so the top of the board is the same height as the tile. Then as your cap sits on top of the tile, the board will also support it. Don’t worry too much if it’s a bit short because when building the cap you will be adding additional support and covering bad cuts. Then using a generous ¼” bead of the adhesive on the back of the board, apply it to the wall starting in a corner. The product uses a tongue and groove system so the next piece should slide right in. I have used products where the pieces are very resistant to fitting into the groove of the previous piece. In these cases I’ve used my table saw to cut the backside half of the groove off, thereby making it an overlapping system. Sometimes these joints might not sit as well but by the time you’re done with caulk and paint you’ll never notice them. This technique also works well in tough spots such as behind toilets. Lastly you might have to make custom cuts to go around things like vanities.

Once you’ve installed all the bead board, you’re ready to create your cap. This consists of a support piece as well as the cap itself. You can use many different items from a lumber house for a cap, so do some looking around. I like to use a piece of ½” thick bull nose stock that measures 1 ½” deep and is flat on the backside. For the supporting piece I usually use a trim piece called window stop (so-called because it’s used in windows to hold the sashes in place) which has a nice detail to it. It comes in different widths. Start by cutting the support piece to size. Apply a bead of adhesive to the back. Now place a level on the top of the tile as a guide and install the support piece, placing it against the bottom of the level. Next cut the cap to size. Apply a bead of the adhesive to the top of the tile and support. Gently, with just a little pressure, place the cap on top.

The drying time for the adhesive product you use will determine when you can start painting and caulking. I usually allow it to cure overnight.  And best of all, there are no nail holes to fill!

Finally, you may have to improvise in some cases. For instance, if your run doesn’t end at a piece of trim, such as at a tub, I will use another piece of 1×4 between the base board and top of the tile so that the cap can go over it for a finished look. Also, where you don’t end at an existing piece of trim, I usually will cut the end of the cap at a 45-degree angle to the wall, then cut another 45-degree piece to fill in again.

All in all, these three steps offer you a low-cost method and a relatively low investment of time and skill to make an outdated bath much more appealing to buyers.

Buyers will take a peek inside appliances and cupboards. Here are 10 down-and-dirty tips to sanitize your kitchen to sell:

Clean Your Oven

You’d be surprised what sticks around in there. Don’t forget to clean the window and all the tricky knobs.

Same goes for your microwave. You’d be surprised how last night’s dinner splatters the inside!

Refrigerator and Freezer

Defrost your freezer and wipe down your refrigerator shelves – it says a lot about how you live. Even if you’re planning on taking it with you when you move, you may find it to be a valuable negotiating tool as some buyers will request it in their offer.

Sink and Counter Tops

Scrub your sink and keep it spotless. Don’t keep old sponges out. (Hint: buy a bunch of microfiber rags and put a new one out each day – great for cleaning counter tops and they’re washable. Yes, it’s clean AND green!)

Deep clean your counter tops – If you have granite, make sure it has been sealed recently. (Hint: Method has a nice spray granite cleaner that will help your granite really shine for showings.)

Wipe down all counter-top appliances, such as toaster, coffee pot, bread box, or whatever you must have out. (Hint: never put more on your kitchen counters than fits comfortably on your kitchen table.)

Talking Trash

Take out the garbage before any showing, even if it’s not full. While you’re at it, sweep out the garbage area and hide a stick-on air freshener in the area. If your trash area is not concealed, get a nice step-on can.

Kitchen Cabinets

Wipe down your cabinets with wood cleaner. Make sure the cabinet handles are clean. If they’re chipped or outdated, replace them.

Pantry

A messy, disorganized pantry screams “not enough storage space” to a potential buyer. Take a moment to organize and purge. Are you really going to use that jar of gravy from 3 years ago?

Do Windows

Wash your windows inside and out. If you have heavy window treatments, remove them or at least get the dust out of them. Don’t forget to wash the screens as well. If the trim around your kitchen window is too dirty to clean, add a fresh coat of paint. It does wonders!

Lighten Up

Brighten your light fixtures with a simple cleaning. You may not notice that dead bug caught in the fixture, but I guarantee that a potential buyer will. Make sure you have the proper wattage bulbs in place.

If your light is too dated, replace it with an inexpensive fixture. You’d be surprised at the difference it makes.

Rugs and Floors

If you have any area rugs, clean or remove them. (Hint: be sure not to use too many, only one or two.) If you have a faded or outdated rug under a kitchen table, pitch it. Be sure to add felt stickers to the bottom of your chairs so they move easily and won’t scratch the floor.

Towels

And finally, take a close look at your kitchen towels. Your best bet is to invest in some inexpensive “show” towels to keep out for showings. Hide your “real” work-horse towels in the dryer during showings.

Now, doesn’t your kitchen smell better and shine more? Quick, take a picture for your listing before someone messes it up!

Fear not. Just a few bucks and a couple hours of your time can do wonders and help your front door say “welcome” to a prospective buyer!

Here’s an example of how $25 well-spent dollars made a big difference.

The problems:

• Dirty
• Dead plants
• Blah planters
• Faded flag

Before

The solution:

• Swept off and hosed down the siding ($0)
• Spray painted the planters and added live plants ($12)
• Replaced the flag  ($10)

Extra Credit: can you tell where the other $3 was spent?  Look carefully…

After

If you answered “house numbers added” you were right!  If your house numbers are worn out (or missing, as they were here) it’s time to put up some new ones!

There you have it…$25 can make indeed make a big difference!

Here are a few more bonus tips for front door staging:

• If your welcome mat is worn out, replace it
• Steer clear of holiday displays
• Avoid dried floral wreaths
• Make sure your door and screen operate smoothly
• Polish fixtures if they’re tarnished
• Make sure your doorbell works
• Clean out your light fixtures and make sure the bulbs work
• Avoid collections of small things – too much clutter

So next time you’re driving around the neighborhood, pay close attention to front doors.  You’ll see what I mean!

Now let’s turn our attention to other types of insulation that a typical homeowner can install. There are two major types of insulation that are common besides spray foam. They are fiberglass and loose fill. Different areas and jobs require different types.

For this discussion, I’ll focus on the most under-insulated area in most houses, the attic. The thing to consider when thinking about the amount of insulation required in this area is what the attic is being used for. If it is not being used for living space, the most efficient form will be loose fill. Why? Because you can create a blanket of material that you can fill over the joists. Remember this important fact when thinking insulation: thickness creates air pockets. This is basic. You don’t want to compact it because air space is important for it to function properly. Rule 1 in the insulation game is “the thicker the better.”

If you want to use our attic for storage and put a floor down, then you will want to use fiberglass. You can buy fiberglass with a paper backing applied, generally called kraft-backed, or without a backing. If you are going to use fiberglass in an area that backs up to a heated room, then remember to install the paper backed product with the paper side toward the heated area. If applying in an attic above a heated room, the paper should be face down to create a moisture barrier. All you need to do when using fiberglass insulation is determine the size of the lumber the insulation is going to be placed between. The packaging will clearly show which product should be used. Don’t buy thicker material than required and stuff it in!  You will lose insulation value because you are eliminating air space within the product.

This conversation has focused on insulating the attic floor. If you are considering insulating your attic rafters, please take some time to speak to the pros in your area. Roofs attract a lot of sunlight and can get very hot. Installing insulation incorrectly could damage your structure.

Let’s get started with negotiation tips! If your kid’s room is typical, there is probably a fair amount of what we grownups call “clutter” (your kids may call it treasure).  Here are some ways to negotiate with you kid to stage his or her room, whether your kids are little or teens.

Little kids:

Pre-pack one-third to one-half of the toys in the room for safe keeping until the move.  Depending on the age of your kids, you can either stealth in and do it when they’re not looking, or involve them in the decision making. In my own experience, I’ve found that kids often don’t notice that toys are missing (but each kid’s different). Bonus—the toys will feel new again at the new home.

Toys that remain should be organized out of sight, if possible. Purchase some inexpensive cloth cubbies to store them in a bookcase. Makes pick up easier and the toys are well hidden. Laundry baskets on the top shelf of closets may work as well.

If your child is resistant, consider negotiating a special “transitional toy” as a trade for their cooperation. Be mindful, however, that their reluctance may be out of fear of what is going on.  Be sure to listen to them.

Teenagers:

If you happen to own teenagers, this may be a bit tougher. They’re old enough to reason with, but their also old enough to push back harder. If they are not agreeable to the necessary changes (or to maintaining them temporarily), an old-fashioned non-financial bribe may be in order.

How about putting your teen in charge of selecting the paint color for their new room? Or let them rummage through some Pottery Barn Teen catalogs and have them cut out ideas they like?  The more forward-thinking they become about the whole process, the more help they’ll be now.

If your teens room is a “bold” color, let them help paint their room (use extra drop cloths!). They may enjoy taking on more responsibility.

Bonus—when teens are involved in planning their room, they’re more likely to keep it picked up.

Staging Tips for Kids Rooms:

Now that you have achieved family harmony, here are some staging tips for kid’s rooms:

• If the walls are a bold color, paint them. This may sound like a lot of work, but a gallon or two of paint can really pay off in the end. Select a soft, neutral color such as dove gray or warm beige. Blues can work well too.
• If the bedspread has a busy pattern, buy a plain one at a discount store. Busy patterns will make the room look much smaller.
• Too bland? Add a pop of color with a couple accent pillows for the bed, or hang a simple piece of artwork on the wall.
• If the room feels crowded, remove a piece of furniture (remember, it’s only temporary).  You can also store a dresser in a closet if there is enough space.

Here are two examples of kids’ rooms that were only mildly tweaked, but with big results. In this first case (a teen room), simply de-cluttering and a new bedspread made the difference.

Here is a young boy’s room that felt cluttered and small. By editing furniture, neutralizing the bedspread and clearing out some toys, this room shows much larger. Yes, the walls are still busy, but it’s much better than it was!

This is especially true in the kitchen. If you’re selling, you must surpass dirt-free and go straight for sparkly clean. Buyers should and will take a peek inside appliances and cupboards!  Here are 10 down-and-dirty tips to sanitize your kitchen to sell:

1. Clean your ovens. You’d be surprised what sticks around in there!  Don’t forget to clean the window and all the tricky knobs.

Same goes for your microwave.  You’d be surprised how much reheating last night’s dinner splatters the inside!

2. Refrigerator and Freezer: Defrost your freezer and wipe down your refrigerator shelves – it says a lot about how you live.  Even if you’re planning on taking it with you when you move, you may find it to be a valuable negotiating tool as some buyers will request it in their offer.

3. Sink and countertops: Scrub your sink, and keep it spotless.  Don’t keep old sponges out. Hint: buy a bunch of microfiber rags, and put a new one out each day – great for cleaning counter tops and they’re washable.  Yes, it’s clean AND green!)

Deep clean your countertops – If you have granite, make sure it has been sealed recently.  (Hint: Method has a nice spray granite cleaner that will help your granite really shine for showings).

Wipe down all counter-top appliances, such as toaster, coffee pot, bread box, or whatever you must have out.  (Hint: never put more on your kitchen counters than fits comfortably on your kitchen table).

4. Talking Trash. Take out the garbage before any showing, even if it’s not full.  While you’re at it, sweep out the garbage area and hide a stick-on air freshener in the area.  If your trash area is not concealed, get a nice step-on can.

5. Kitchen Cabinets. Wipe down your cabinets with wood cleaner.  Make sure the cabinet handles are clean.  If they’re nasty or dated, replace them.

6. Pantry. A messy, unorganized pantry screams “not enough storage space” to a potential buyer!  Take a moment to organize and purge.  Are you really going to use that jar of gravy from 3 years ago?

7. Do Windows. Wash your windows inside and out. If you have heavy window treatments, remove them or at least get the dust out of them.  Don’t forget to wash the screens as well!  If the trim around your kitchen window is too dirty to clean, add a fresh coat of paint.  It does wonders!

8. Lighten Up. Brighten your light fixtures with a simple cleaning. You may not notice that dead bug caught in the fixture, but I guarantee that a potential buyer will!  Make sure you have the proper wattage bulbs in place.

If your light is too dated, replace it with an inexpensive fixture.  You’d be surprised at the difference it makes!

9. Rugs and floors. If you have any area rugs, clean or remove them.  Hint: be sure not to use too many, only one or two.  If you have a nasty (or outdated) rug under a kitchen table, pitch it.  Be sure to add felt stickers to the bottom of your chairs so they move easily and won’t scratch the floor.

10. Towels. And finally, take a close look at your kitchen towels.  Your best bet is to invest in some inexpensive “show” towels to keep out for showings.  Hide your “real” work-horse towels in the dryer during showings.

Now, doesn’t your kitchen smell better and shine more?   Quick, take a picture for your listing before “someone” messes it up!