We have a common problem here in the Northeast: outdated ceramic tile that lines most of the bathroom walls, a holdover design element from the fifties and sixties.
Most people think that the only way to convert an outdated bathroom is to bring it down to bare walls or studs. Not only is this expensive and time consuming, but it’s also very messy. For the homeowner working on a limited budget, a complete remodel is not an option. What to do in this situation? I think I’ve come up with a cost-effective and stylish solution that any handy person with intermediate skills could complete.
My three-step system uses ¼” bead board usually made from MDF secured to the wall with adhesive. Adhesives have been used in construction applications for decades and have come a long way over the years. Since MDF normally does not do well in humid areas, you must take care to protect it, so I make sure it is well-protected with two coats of a good latex or oil-based paint and caulk. If you protect it well, moisture should never be an issue.
First, choose your lumber. Find a baseboard you like. A simple 1×4 primed pine works well in most cases. Next, choose the bead board you might want to use at Home Depot or other home center, where you’re likely to find several styles to choose from. Lastly, you’ll design a cap that will give your job that custom look.
Step one: Base board. There is usually a baseboard and cap designed to be used with bead board. They are good products and easy to use, but they look a little generic. Personally designing your baseboard only takes a little thought and will give you a custom look. In most cases I attempt to mimic the style in the house. If other areas of the house use a 1×4 I will use that. If it has details such as quarter round and/or some type of cap, I will attempt to copy that so there is a consistent design flow from other areas to the bathroom.
Step two: Bead board. In most bathrooms, the tile is 36” to 42” up the wall. Purchase the bead board materials in eight-foot lengths to save money, and cut it down to the right height. I’ve found it best to cut it so the top of the board is the same height as the tile. Then as your cap sits on top of the tile, the board will also support it. Don’t worry too much if it’s a bit short because when building the cap you will be adding additional support and covering bad cuts. Then using a generous ¼” bead of the adhesive on the back of the board, apply it to the wall starting in a corner. The product uses a tongue and groove system so the next piece should slide right in. I have used products where the pieces are very resistant to fitting into the groove of the previous piece. In these cases I’ve used my table saw to cut the backside half of the groove off, thereby making it an overlapping system. Sometimes these joints might not sit as well but by the time you’re done with caulk and paint you’ll never notice them. This technique also works well in tough spots such as behind toilets. Lastly you might have to make custom cuts to go around things like vanities.
Once you’ve installed all the bead board, you’re ready to create your cap. This consists of a support piece as well as the cap itself. You can use many different items from a lumber house for a cap, so do some looking around. I like to use a piece of ½” thick bull nose stock that measures 1 ½” deep and is flat on the backside. For the supporting piece I usually use a trim piece called window stop (so-called because it’s used in windows to hold the sashes in place) which has a nice detail to it. It comes in different widths. Start by cutting the support piece to size. Apply a bead of adhesive to the back. Now place a level on the top of the tile as a guide and install the support piece, placing it against the bottom of the level. Next cut the cap to size. Apply a bead of the adhesive to the top of the tile and support. Gently, with just a little pressure, place the cap on top.
The drying time for the adhesive product you use will determine when you can start painting and caulking. I usually allow it to cure overnight. And best of all, there are no nail holes to fill!
Finally, you may have to improvise in some cases. For instance, if your run doesn’t end at a piece of trim, such as at a tub, I will use another piece of 1×4 between the base board and top of the tile so that the cap can go over it for a finished look. Also, where you don’t end at an existing piece of trim, I usually will cut the end of the cap at a 45-degree angle to the wall, then cut another 45-degree piece to fill in again.
All in all, these three steps offer you a low-cost method and a relatively low investment of time and skill to make an outdated bath much more appealing to buyers.
